It’s Okay to Use WD-40 on Your Bike Chain… Seriously!

wd-40 can be used as a bicycle chain lube, just be careful where you point it
“The Evil WD-40 wants to kill your drive train.” Really?

How dare I!  There is no way that I am going to get away with this, but I’m going to do it anyways.  I am going to tell everyone I can that there is nothing wrong with using WD-40 on their bicycle chains.

Blasphemy, you say?

Well, hear me out first.

I am not a quack, or snake oil salesman.  I happen to be an experienced bike tech, with 6 years of full-time shop employment, and many more years before that I was a home mechanic in my garage.   And although I am still young, I have seen a lot of worn out drive-trains.  I been with many of them from their installation, through their subsequent maintenance, as well as their eventual replacement.  From birth to death, if you will.  I know the character of the owners, I know how much they ride, and I know what they ride through.  I also know what they lube their chains with, as they buy it at our shop.  Most of the time, their chains are well cared for with regular applications of expensive, bicycle specific chain lubes.

Now, I have no evidence to back up the claims that I am about to make.  Nor do I know anything about the chemistry or physics behind the use of lubrication and moving parts.  I can only offer you anecdotal evidence of some things that I have observed.

WD-40 will NOT hurt your drive train, and it IS a lubricant. And a fairly good one at that!

I have been mountain biking for 17 years, and I have done a lot of hard riding, in many different conditions, and I have a confession to make.  I lube my chain with WD-40.  You will not hear to many of your local bike shop employees share this with you.  I’m sure that you have been told at some time that putting WD-40 doesn’t do anything for your bike chain, or that WD-40 isn’t a lubricant, or worse yet, that putting WD-40 on your chain will actually make it worse!  I am writing this to tell you that all three of these  statements are untrue.  I hope you will believe me when I tell you that my drive trains last as long as, if not longer than, most people’s, despite the fact that WD-40 is just about the only thing that ever touches my chain.

 

If only you could see through all the diry, you would see that this chain has been well oiledIn fact, if you buy the chain oil sold at your local bike shop, than there is one thing I can say for sure:  My bike’s chain is cleaner than yours is right now!  A clean chain and cassette runs much smoother, and lasts much longer, than a dirty one.  Give me a spotlessly clean chain, no matter how dry it is, over that oily black dirty thing on your bike any day.  Not that my chain is running dry.  WD-40 provides enough lubrication to last longer than my average ride.  By my estimations, in dry conditions, it will keep my chain running quiet and smooth for about 8 – 12 hours of riding.  For me that means I need to re-apply it about once every three or four rides.  There is no mistaking the sound of a dry chain, and at that time I simply give it a spray, wipe it off really good with a rag, and Presto!  Ready to go for a few more days!

Still don’t believe me?  Check out the ingredients in the can.  The stuff is mostly oil.  If you don’t believe that WD-40 can be used as a lubricant, spray some on your fingers and rub them together.  Slippery, eh!?

 

tri-flow, pedro's and finishline cost about 10 times as much as a can of wd40
Ounce for ounce, these products cost about 10 times as much as WD-40. Do they make your drive train last 10 times longer?The only way to undo the years of brainwashing by the anti WD-40 brigade is to try it out for yourself.  Next time you replace your drive-train, give America’s most trusted blue, yellow and red can a shot.  You really have nothing to loose.  The money you save on Tri-Flow and Pedro’s will be almost enough to buy you another chain and cassette if everything goes horribly wrong (which it won’t, of course.)

Just some things to remember if you are planning to take part in WD-40’s magic:

1) DO NOT ever point that thing any where near your brake caliper, rotor, rim or hub bearings, it will wreck them all!  You don’t have to hit your bike with the sprayer at full blast.  Keep it easy on the trigger finger and just let a little trickle out onto the chain. (It does require a soft touch!)

2) It is okay to use it on your derailleurs to keep the bushings clean and moving freely, but don’t put it in your rear derailleur pulleys if they contain sealed bearings (a la SRAM X0/X9)

3) And finally, if you are going out for a ride in the rain and muck, than bring a small bottle of synthetic chain oil (Tri-Flow is my personal fave) just incase.  The one downside of WD-40 is that it does tend to wash off quickly in really, really, wet situations.  But doesn’t anything?  (Please don’t say Phils Oil!  That stuff is way too clingy!)

Let me hear what you think about  WD-40 in the comments, I’m really curious.

About BikeFAT 135 Articles
Mountain Biker, Trail Builder and Bike Tech

63 Comments

  1. I’ve tried a few lubes over the years, mostly used white lightning… still do, but In these nasty winter months it sure is nice to just hose the chain down with WD (it has excellent cleaning properties,) run it through a rag for a while and go again.

    Time is money, and if you don’t have a kings ransom tied up in your chain, rings, and cassette it’s much more economical to save time and just replace the parts once in a while.

    • True That! If I was running XTR stuff, I might think a little more before rocking the WD-40, but for my current needs, the stuff works more than good enough!
      Thanks for the comment.

    • Considering WD-40 was first developed as a water displacement oil. That’s what the WD stands for. NASA used WD-40 on the old Atlas missiles also. Great Stuff!!

  2. Marvel’s mystery air tool oil is the best lube I ever experienced.
    Light enough to penetrate all parts of a bike chain.
    Keeps your chain clean after 100+ miles.
    Makes your chain silent.
    Makes shifting a dream.
    $15 for a life time supply

  3. I have used WD40 as a chain lubricant for 15 years. I find it lasts longer on the chain than most products. I usually apply one drop per roller and my chains last an average of 8,000 miles on a 9 cassette and 6,000 miles on a 10 cassette.

  4. ah uze WD and it iz grate!
    Bought a dry lube recently… does nuffin’ no dirt or sand comes off the chain…
    Anyway’ would you in bike land fix an old mtb because it needs cranks,chain,cogs to value around $150 (it’s a great GIANT no rust etc) OR would you just spend an extra amount for a new gen mtb?
    Hey friend, I’ll work for ya!
    @$23.00 an hour (an I’ll be your best friend!)

  5. I owned a shop for ten years and have ridden for 40. Customers always got the recommended lubes, or what they asked for…me Wd40 all the time. Drive train, pivot points, and some on a rag for a general wipedown. Never on brakes or bearing area. All the mechanics used it…just never mentioned it to the elitists who would scoff at putting common wd on their Italian ride. Good post!

  6. Yep, it’s what I use nearly all the time. As you say, it’s a good cleaner, too. I used a heavier duty lubricant last time I knew the roads were wet and the result was a drive chain choked with gunk.
    Still, it came off easily with WD40.

  7. WD 40 has been around a long time. It has only minor lube qualities. Yeah, I used it in the sixties. It has tremendous coating qualities. Those expensive chain lubes that cling are not good because they cling the grains of stones also. WD cleans these things out. Do I use WD 40 on my chains? No! I have some GO 90 left over from a repair on my truck rear. Does not smell elite, but has good lube qualities. Does not last for hours but as a CX rider it serves my purpose. Use it on my roadies too.

  8. Hi, a friend of mine who used to be a helicopter mechanic in the Singapore Armed Forces told me that they use WD40 for everything from rusty bolts and nuts to rotorblades. So, I went to spray it on every moving joint including the bearings!

    What should I do now?

    Appreciate your advice.

    • The danger of WD-40 being sprayed on your bearings is that if it gets past the seals, it will start to dissolve the grease they are packed with. There’s not much you can do now but give the bike a good wash and be careful not to spray them anymore. It’s not likely to do anything noticeable in the suspension pivots, but might shorten their life a little. If you sprayed the hubs and they have serviceable bearings(eg. Shimano) than it might be wise to have them cleaned and re-packed with grease. If you got it on disc brake pads, they will need to be replaced. I haven’t damaged things like shifters or derailleurs with WD40 myself, but some rear derailleurs now come with sealed bearings in the pulleys which won’t like being hit with the stuff.

  9. If you look at Wikipedia for WD-40, it tells much of the history and helps to explain what it does. The “WD” designation is for “Water dispersant’ – getting rid of water. The “40” merely means it’s the 40th attempt at finding a solution that worked. WD-40 is mostly fish oil. I don’t think they divulge which type of fish. Maybe it’s a combination of several types. That it has oil, agreeably a light oil, and it’s made to get water out of small places is all we need to know. It works well and needs frequent re-application. I’m fine with it for short rides when I can re-apply. On a long tour, I have to have something that stays on better.
    Thanks for a good write up and a nice conversation about such an important topic.

  10. Years ago I accidentally found one big shortcoming to WD-40, after using it to penetrate and loosen the headset races pressed into a steel frame. As a penetrating oil, it worked only too well, and crept quite a ways under the adjoining paint; the paint never softened but instead flaked away, over several months, farther and farther from the point where the oil had been applied.
    No one here seems to have any solid background in either chemistry or particularly lubrication technology. Waxes work a bit like graphite which is just like Moly disulphide, by creating a platelike film that slips across other layers. There are many oils that bond to metals, and many superior anti-corrosion additives which might be added to a base of paraffin for far better all-around performance than PTFE/Slick 50, et al which have been essentially de-bunked for years, because teflon simply slides off the surface you’re trying to protect, and is inert in any carrier/wax/oil/solvent! Last, since paraffin is soluble in cheap naptha (otc in most hardware stores=Coleman stove fuel) one should be able to either bypass entirely the melting step by mixing whatever combo and letting the naptha evaporate overnight. One pitfall, though, is that as with motor oil additives, sometimes they break down or compromise the molecular properties of the others, which is why straight brand-name oils last and work better than many with otc additives tossed in randomly.

  11. I see that most of the bike shops now handle WD-40 Bike. Is this just the same old WD-40 packaged differently and with a new name and a higher price to compete with the other lubricants in the shop or is it really that much better than the WD-40 you can already pick-up almost everywhere for lubricating your chain?

  12. It’s good to see someone else advocate for something I have known for many years. Yes, there is a huge stigma against WD-40 and I’ve seen many riders turn up their noses. Perhaps for no reason other than the fact that it doesn’t cost a fortune.

    I’ve used everything on the market for chain lube. Fact is, WD-40 does an excellent job of removing grit and grime, displacing water, and applying a light coat of oil with just the right viscosity. If you wipe the chain with a rag after applying a bead of WD-40, it will shine and perform like new.

    While it does act as a solvent when first applied, those volatile compounds evaporate quickly leaving just a light oil coating behind.

    Thanks for the post!

  13. I didn’t realize wd40 was a lubricant – thought it was just a solvent. The guy at the shop told me to flip the bike, spray it continuously on the chain and let the gunk dribble off, spray the gears using a brush, and voila. Lately, I’ve been using it to fill the basin on a chain cleaner. After, I use a bike lube. Unnecessary, huh?

    • There is a light lubricant left behind after it dries. Just use your fingers and feel it for yourself! It’ll keep your chain quiet for a few hours of riding at least, depending on conditions of course.

      • You said it all. Perfect article. I’ve been a bije mechanic for 35 year and wd40 works. And so does any oil for a bike. Olive oil, butter, bacon grease…

    • That’s because it’s NOT a lubricant. It’s a solvent. It won’t last anywhere near as long as a real lubricant.

  14. For all the WD-40 cheerleaders here, do yourselves a favor and head over to their website and compare the MSDS sheets for the aerosol WD-40 you can get at the hardware store versus their own wet bike chain lube. What you’ll find is that the bike lube contains twice as much “Petroleum Base Oil,” half the light hydrocarbon and much more in the way of “Non-Hazardous Ingredients.” Couldn’t say what the “Non-Hazardous Ingredients” are, but my speculation would be that it’s Teflon or some similar polymer.

    So what, you ask? This pretty much tells me that even the WD-40 people don’t think their aerosol is a great solution for lubricating bike chains. If it were, they’d just put it in smaller packaging, call it bicycle chain lube, price it just under what’s already out there and sell it to bicyclists. But instead, they’ve come up with couple of bike chain-specific products.

    Don’t get me wrong. I use WD-40 on my bike chains after wet or snowy rides, because it does a great job of displacing water, grit and fouled lube. The difference is that after I wipe all that crap off and let the chain dry, I follow it with something that’s actually intended to be longer-lasting. I’ve found that aerosol WD-40 just doesn’t stay put, and that I’m not always in a situation where I can re-lube frequently.

    In ideal conditions where you can re-apply frequently? Knock yourself out. Personally, I’d rather have the flexibility to not have to do that and spend my time riding more. YMMV.

    • It has been my experience that WD-40 does a good job of lubricating the chain but turns into a dirt magnet after a couple of rides. I typically use it more as a way to clean the chain. Then I apply a synthetic lube i.e rock roll or white lightning.

    • Yep – WD40 openly admits that their aerosol WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, but a solvent. There is no way they could sell their typical formula WD-40 rebranded as a bike lube. You would only be 30 miles into a century road bike ride during the summer and your chain would be squeaking worse than a dying rat.

  15. I use WD-40 to clean my chain and cassettes. I lube them with a combination of Slick50 and very light oil. I have not replaced a chain yet, I think I have about 8K miles on my chain and it is still nice and tight.

  16. Good day Sir,

    I really liked your post that you made. So I went and bought me a small can of WD-40. I have been using it now for a month. Before I applied it the first time I washed my chain and dried it. Applied the WD-40, wiped off the excess oil and went to ride the next day. We did a 60km and after about 30km the chain started squeaking. Got home after the ride and washed my bike and the chain again. applied the WD-40 again and wiped off the excess oil. Went for a ride the next day. We did a 40km and after about 25km – 30km the chain started squeaking again. So this went on for the whole month. I just cannot stop the chain from squeaking after a while.
    My chain wasn’t dry or squeaked before I started using WD-40. Since I started using it, the squeaking was there.

    Is there something I am doing wrong?

    Regards

    • “Is there something I am doing wrong?”

      Yes. You’re using WD-40 as a chain lube. Use a proper chain lube and the problem will go away.

    • “is there something I am doing wrong?”

      Yes, you listened to this jackass posting that WD40 works, when all he does is barely ride 10 miles on his fat bike.

      WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. It won’t last for the mileage you need.

  17. I’ve been using WD-40 for years on my hybrid bicycle chain. I cleaned it with a rag after spraying it liberally.

    My chain lasted for over 4000ks and there’s still no sign of excessive wear.

    It does attract dirt and my sprocket looks black and covered with dirt and grime. Hovewer, spray some more wd-40 and it will become clean.

    I applied the wd-40 every 100kms and my chain never squeaks between application.

  18. in Minnesota 99% of the people park their bikes from Nov-May. Come May and later, I hear lots of squeaky chains. I always think how much better these people would be if they gave their chains a shot of WD40. I do. Maybe it’s not the BEST, but so what? Most people are more interested in riding a few miles after work than quixotic quests to find the optimal product. For average people WD40 works FINE. It WILL quiet a squeaky chain. Attracts dirt? They all do. Oh, if you use Magic Lube-X, it stays so clean you can eat off you chain! Give me a break. Okay, if you ride a thousand miles a month, maybe a better lube is the right choice, but most people do not.

  19. Been using WD 40 on my Rock Hopper Chain / Shimano / for over one year.
    I put on WD40 before every ride and degrease after ride.
    I ride about 200 miles per week on all types of terrain and in all types of weather.
    My chain and drive parts are still in pristine condition and look brand new.
    Just had a full service on the bike, wheel bearings and all .
    The bike mechanic said there were no problems with any parts.
    Just thought I would share this with you all out there.

  20. Can you move the warnings to the top of the article!! Its good to know not to dpray the rotor and stuff BEFORE i do it.

  21. I don’t think anyone will doubt that if you use WD-40 *often enough*, it will definitely work. It sounds like, based on the frequency of lubrication OP uses, and based on the experience of some of the riders in this comment thread, if you lubricate exclusively with WD-40 you’ll need to re-apply every 30-60 miles. Now, maybe you don’t mind. Indeed, if you do this, your chain will be clean as a whistle because you’ll be giving it a frequent spritz and wipe down. However, I would assert that if you lube your chain every 30-60 miles with, say, tri-flow, that you’ll get smoother chain function and it will last longer.

    Here’s my two cents on WD-40’s composition: if you spill WD-40 on a porous surface like bare concrete, the resulting stain will evaporate in a few days like nothing was ever spilled. If you spill any purpose-made lubricant (Pedro’s, motor oil, 3-in-1, silicone machine oil, *anything* designed to be a lubricant) the stain will stay there for months and months, or forever. WD-40 simply evaporates away.

  22. I use WD 40 all of the time.
    Flush it off after my ride with degreaser and re apply for next outing.
    Great product no problems at all.
    I mtb 200 miles per week.

  23. +1 for WD-40, good on road drive trains. Clean chain always a must

    Of course chain specific lubes are “better” if it fits the budget, but anyone that knows the workings of capitalism they invent some cheap lube cocktail stick their label on it and bill you 12x what it’s worth to make it put it in a tiny bottle and have you buying more over and over….chain lubes esp the dry teflon have strong merits for the longer 40-80+ rides but imo aren’t required when the lube bottle is about half the price of the chain itself so it’s a scam to me at least. Chemically, the reason WD-40 doesn’t last is it evaporates steadily above hot roads it leaves a sufficient amount of lubricant residue which I find works way better per buck than the scam bottles white lightning is shit WD all day I like to relube every post-ride and even on the 50-70s i still cant be arsed to relube it halfway..would rather let my chain die being tired to haul cans I just do it at home after regardless of ride length…though honestly the 2 minute post-ride chain cleaning makes all the difference and you can get away with more miles between each relubing it’s really the sand/dirt grits that f the d train does more damage than anything and it can build up quick, super easy to clean if you’ve only got one ride of grit to deal than 10 rides worth. Saves money on degreaser, really just all in one. Always relubing post rides, I try to make a habit of cleaning the chain after every other short ride and def after every 50+ ride a min or two wd 40 dirty tooth brush and a dedicated chain/cassete rag…no more getting scammed. Those bottles are for those that want to ‘feel pro’ but want to get away with intermittent chain maintenance it will matter if you are on a pro team but hell to the naw WD-40 is amazing don’t let anyone knock it… lubes my door hinges keeps my chain happy all is good, ride on brethren

  24. WD-40 is used by BOEing for all moving engine parts for a long time. Its a great article saying that WD 40 works just fine. BECAUSE IT IS JUST FINE!
    =)

    WD40 dries a little fast though, so I spray my chains at least twice a week.

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  27. I use 3M 5-Way penetrant. It is pretty much like wd40. It leaves behind a thin film of light industrial oil. It is also an excellent tapping oil for steel and aluminium. Chain is clean and smooth.

    Any one has thoughts on gt85?

  28. I agree with the use of wd 40 on bike chains. a clean chain and cassette will last much longer than one covered in grease and grime that is being used as a grinding paste.its a no brainer if you ask me

  29. I bought an MTB and used the expensive lube from the bike shop. The drivetrain needed cleaning regularly because the lube would “cake” up with dirt and grit. It just turns into this thick black gunge that gets everywhere. The cassette, chain set and chain get completely caked up with this gunge.

    After replacing the chain set, cassette and chain (after 6,000 miles) all i’ve used to lube the chain is WD40. The cassette stays clean the chain stays clean and there is no gunge caking up everything.

    I cycle 36 miles a day. I apply WD40 to my chain every 108 miles. I’ll fold a couple of dozen sheets of paper towel into quarters and use each one under a section of the chain (between the chain set and the derailleur). I press gently to allow the WD40 to release a steady foam from the nozzle and drizzle it back and forth along the top of the chain two or three times while sliding the paper towel along with it under the chain to catch the excess WD40. Then i just wipe the chain back and forward, top bottom and sides, a few times. After that i’ll turn the crank to the next section and start again with a new piece of paper towel. Takes about 30 minutes to go round the chain a couple of times.

    Why do i bother doing this ?. I’m sick and tired of having my drivetrain ground down and destroyed with that horrible, thick, black gritty paste.

    I’ve got 3.6 litres of WD 40 sitting in my cupboard. It absolutely has to be applied twice a week at the rate i cycle.

    Why use anything which will quite simply grind down your drivetrain ?.

  30. fact is that if you have been out riding your bike for around 3 trips its likely to need a wash anyway and no matter what expensive grease you put on there you will need to remove it and reapply it after washing. WD40 or GT86 is cheaper and if it only has to last 3-4 rides then i dont see the problem.

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  32. Use nothing but WD-40. For thousands of miles. It’s perfectly fine and I love it.

    For those complaining that “it’s a solvent, not a lubricant”, prepare to have your mind blown: it’s both. Like all petroleum products.

    40 is brilliant chain lube _because_ it’s also a solvent. I soak my chain down with it before each and every ride, let it sit while I go about the rest of my pre-ride checklist, then wipe it off militantly before mounting up. The sit lets it penetrate all the rollers completely, and promotes evaporation of unwanted product. (That’s one of 40’s strongest advantages: leave it alone long enough and it’ll evaporate on its own. It won’t just sit there forever, caking up your world with sand.)

    The jet-black gunk that comes out of my chain, which always appears spotless thanks to this ritual, onto the paper towel tells the whole story: chain is cleaned and lubed simultaneously, with an incredible amount of tiny microscopic grit and metal flour washed out of the inner workings, even though to look at it you’d swear it’s a brand new chain. Because it’s penetrating oil, and it flows almost magically into any possible recess, it sluices out stuff you can’t even see. Also, if there happens to be any water, anywhere, for any reason… it’s gone now.

    Since I’ve never used any of the carriage-trade products, I can’t compare. What I do know is that 40 is all just about anyone needs, if applied conscientiously, and I never want any heavy sticky oil anywhere near my chain. The god-awful grit that stuff must coat your chain with is going to cancel out any possible technical advantage it offers as a lubricant or anti-corrosion coating. Chemistry be damned.

    My 40 cents. (Get it?)

  33. Spent an earlier life as a bike mechanic. Since then I’ve done years of road riding and mountainbiking, both racing, leisure and some touring. I swear by WD40. In the early days though, I insisted on only using various specialist lubes. These usually claimed impressive formulations and powers, but were always expensive. I noticed most of them were pretty viscous and therefore attracted a lot of dirt and grit. I realised it was this, along with neglect, that does the most damage to bicycle transmissions.

    About twenty years ago I gave up on all the expensive fancy stuff and all the cleaning it usually brought with it and started using only WD40. I currently use three bikes – a hardtail mountain bike, a winter bike and a Dura Ace-equipped Look carbon for racing and summer use. The transmissions on all three are always lubed with WD40. Nothing else. And I’m fussy about the performance of my bikes. I want them quiet and I want the shifts to be precise and instant. The Dura Ace chain on my Look is currently entering its fifth season and is still as smooth and quiet as the day it was fitted.

    Probably the biggest downside of WD40 is the fact it is so light. This gives it powerful penetrating abilities, but does mean it washes off easily in wet conditions. It’s important therefore to always relubricate after a wet ride using the ‘apply and wipe’ technique described above. On the times I haven’t done this, cheaper chains particularly have gone slightly stiff and rusty by the next day. Most people might say that transmissions should always be cleaned and re-lubed after a wet ride whatever lube is on there and I’m inclined to agree.

    One thing no one has mentioned is the the very useful fact that WD40 is a spray delivered through a tube. This means that the water and dirt-displacing properties of the fluid are greatly enhanced and the accuracy with which the lube can be delivered is perfect for derailleur pivots and other small, hard to reach areas.

    WD40 every time!

  34. Hi
    I have a Scott spark 910. And somebody told me to use wd40 to lube the joints which move due to the rear suspension movements. There are 6 joint which i applied to but i went further and applied to the crankshaft bearings and the derailers also. I have not ride it yet. Now I am scared!!!. Please help

    • We’re all talking about using WD on the chain and derailleurs only. It definitely should not be used on bearings containing grease (bottom bracket, hubs, freehub, headset, etc. This is because it is thin enough to penetrate the seals and will dissolve the grease (like all light oils, it is also a solvent). I’m guessing you mean bottom bracket when you say ‘crankshaft’ and you may have a problem here. The worst case is if you have used a lot of WD40 you have reduced the life of the bearing, which means it may need replacing sooner than expected. They always need replacing eventually, so this is not a disaster.

      I wouldn’t think there will be a problem with the pivots, although I am not familiar with their design. If they are bearing units containing cartridge bearings or similar, then again, you may have a problem over the longer term if you have sprayed a lot of it directly into the bearing. If they are simple bushed pivots then they will be fine.

  35. WD-40 is great for me. I don’t ride far or often so the fact it’s a light oil and won’t last through a long ride isn’t a problem. I live in the tropics next to the ocean, so it’s either insanely hot, incredibly humid or pouring rain and there’s the ever-present salt spray in the air that helps everything corrode nice and fast. In these conditions WD-40 has advantages over most other lubricants. I can understand “serious” cyclists around here wouldn’t use it (not much good if you’re doing 60km rides) but for people using a bike for a short commute or infrequent rides well under 30km, not only is it suitable, I’d go as far as to say that it’s your best bang-for-buck chain lube option.

  36. I use only WD40 Spray and Stay lubricant on my bicycle including, chain, cassette and derailleur, and I love it! It gives me a much more smoother ride than with conventional “special bicycle lubricants”, and changing gears is fantastic.

  37. WD-40 contains some sort of oil like kerosene, so it acts as a solvent and eats away at dirt and muck, cleaning the chain, while keeping the chain lubed. It in no way harms rubber or ring seals. As you said though it does have to be replied often.

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